Training Questions and Answers
Recognizing that for a variety of valid reasons many horsepeople wish to train their horses themselves, Sandi is now offering Online Assistance for all your horse training, lesson, and management needs.
E-mail the specifics of your particular need and provide as many details as possible that apply to your situation. Your question and a comprehensive lesson tailored to the uniqueness of your situation will be posted on this page. Names will be changed to keep things anonymous.
Riding position
QUESTION: What would be the cause of a rider’s upper body moving (swinging) in the canter? This rider seems to have a secure and relaxed seat.
ANSWER: There are a few possibilities that would cause this to happen. The first thing I would look at is whether the rider is sitting evenly on the three points of his seat, (two seat bones and pubic bone), forming a balanced triangle. This is the basic foundation for balancing, not gripping when one rides. If a rider is unbalanced, putting too much weight on any one point it can cause the upper body to swing (i.e. weight too far back)
Second check the vertical line of position, (ear, shoulder, hip and heel). Any misalignment of the vertical line will cause an imbalance that may be preventing the rider from using his body in isometrics.
Third, once balance in the seat is obtained the rider must be certain they are not either standing in the stirrups or putting pressure on them. The stirrups are there to support your foot only. The rider's legs should be "draped" over the horse without squeezing or gripping. One should feel the horse's sides gently moving in and out against your calf. This allows you to become a part of the horse's motion instead of an obstacle.
Fourth, riders also have a tendency at times to squeeze their knees which disconnects the upper and lower body and causes the whole upper body to swing in the canter.
Fifth, the pelvis must be free, without restriction on following the movement of the horse. Remembering, any misalignment and/or gripping, squeezing, standing or pushing will cause us to distance ourselves from moving in harmony.
SOLUTIONS: Once all of the above are assessed and if necessary corrected I find a wonderful aid to teaching independence in our body is working on the lunge line. Ask the rider to first drop the stirrups, (this should be done on only a reliably safe horse), then ask him/her to canter with their arms out to the side, palms up. Follow this with the rider twisting at the waist to face you and then twisting to face the outside, and back to center. Repeat several times being certain your rider does not change position in his seat balance, or any other part of his body while doing this. Riders tend to compensate and this would defeat the purpose of this exercise.
Continue with asking the rider to put both arms in front of them, followed by putting them straight up, then behind them. I would then ask them to reach their arms straight above their heads and "climb a rope." I love this exercise as it frees the waist and ribs. Make sure they are actually "pretending" to climb without changing their seat, legs or any other body part. Swimming the back stroke with your arms (alternating), with easy rhythmic circles will again help to isolate the pelvis.
If the rider is still swinging try asking them to swing one leg forward and one back at the same time. Hold it for2 seconds and then switch. Continue with the legs by asking them to point one toe down and the other up. Using isolated circles (reverse) with first the ankle, then from the knee down, then from the hip down will all assist in independence of the body.
A more quiet exercise is to ask the rider to simply drop one arm in a relaxed manner placing it behind his thigh. In summary, any excess movement from our bodies will inhibit our effectiveness in influencing the horse. Being certain we are first balanced in our seat, properly aligned, and have no pressure, squeezing or tightening throughout our body will allow harmony in motion.
Need help with stubborn horse
QUESTION: I was looking over your website and was convinced in writing this email hoping maybe you could help me with our horse Cyber.
We bought Cyber this Feb and he was untouched, untrained at the age of eight years old. He is a Belgian/thoroughbred cross and stands at 17.1. I bought him because he had a teddy bear personality and hoped he would make a good trail horse for my husband. We brought him to the farm where we board, gave him a couple of days to get settled in and then began working with him, first with leading because he wanted to run you over while leading...it was bad, but we got that fixed and he now does perfect.
We then started his lunging, he does good but sometimes he will try to kick at your face and I'm not sure how to fix that. after we got him turning good and his paces good we started with introducing the bridle i started him off in a full cheek copper snaffle, he takes it good but he has a very hard mouth and ill get to that in a minute. to make a long story short we have been riding him in a western saddle and he does good for the most part but is SO stubborn. He will not turn good at all. this horse does not know how to walk in a straight line and will not listen to you. he will walk and trot but if you ask for any more he begins crow-hopping or he will kick out with one leg and then freezes up and will not go any further. I have taken him out on one trail ride following two other riders and he did really good for his first trail ride and we did not push him at all but he will not go on anymore. Me and my husband tried and we got a little up the road before he bucked my husband off. so we have been working him back in the arena but he just does not listen no matter what we try to do he will walk straight into the fence with you, he will not turn and it takes a lot to stop him we have to do a one rein stop and we end up going in a bunch of wide circles before we can stop him. We have had a vet and a farrier come out and look for any problems and they didn't see anything. I don't know if I'm using the wrong bit or what I don't know what to do I've never owned a horse like this before when you are on the ground with him he wants all the attention he can get he is so sweet that i trust my little girls around him and he will lick you to death. I cannot afford training these days but I feel like I'm doing a very bad job doing it myself, so I put him up for sale but everyone that comes out and gets on his back leaves right away, because he is so stubborn you can't do anything with him - you're just up there and he does what he wants and you pull on the right rein to go right but he will side pass and take you left until you're up against the fence leg crushed. I don't want to sell him, Sandi, but I'm lost and frustrated. I've attached a photo of Cyber and I hope you can give me any advice to what I can do for this big boy of mine. Thank you for your time.
ANSWER: Hi Hannah, I am struck by your desire to work things out with Cyber. Your open-minded attitude and willingness to learn is a great combination for success! Acquiring a new horse is only the beginning of the process in becoming partners. Both your role in training as well as learning what Cyber is trying to communicate to you requires a clear understanding of body language. I am pleased that you had him vetted for potential physical discomfort. Did you also have his teeth examined? Have you checked his tack? Improper fitting saddles can pinch causing pain. The type of bit you're using sounds fine. Is it the correct size?
Is it placed correctly in his mouth? I do not believe in the theory of hard mouths. I do believe an uneducated mouth can cause a horse to protect himself by bracing against pressure. Horses instinctive behavior is to brace against whatever is causing them discomfort. The bit should not be used for control, but for communication. Cyber must learn to focus on you through the bit and give to gentle pressure in all aids. First, understanding horses natural instincts, behavior and language can help clarify so many issues. Horses are herd animals.
In the herd they have a leader. They look for direction and security in that horse. When horses interact with humans they still need a leader. If you are not that leader, they will become yours! You can definitely be a friend to your horse, but one must have both trust and respect first. At eight years of age, Cyber is a mature horse. Without any early training he may not understand the "pecking order" involved with humans. In nature horses establish this pecking order in their own herd. The leader should be both trusted and respected.
In relating to humans horses will react as though you are another horse in the herd. You must first establish a leadership with him in order to gain his cooperation. A 17.1 hand horse can be an imposing figure when unwilling. Since you've been to my website you already know I do not believe in being a bully to gain respect. I chuckle to think of those that would try intimidation on such a large horse to accomplish this! A frightened horse will instinctively want to run from his fear. If unable to run he will fight. I like to think of training as placing the horse in a position that will cause him, not force him, to do the right thing. Aggressive training is designed to bully the horse into submission. This can be accomplished using methods that I would term abusive. It does not mean the bully is appreciated or trusted. I would much prefer a horse that enjoys his work and time with me rather than one that responds out of fear. If given a choice the majority of horses will seek the gentle leader. It sounds as though you have already gained his trust and in order to gain his respect ground work, lots of ground, work will be necessary.
I advise starting with relationship development in a round pen. It appears you may have done some, however, according to your description of Cyber and the difficulties you state I believe you may need to take this further. You cannot have respect under saddle without first establishing it in hand. Round pens are wonderful aids in helping to keep a horse focused. When we are able to take the "wide open space" away the instinct to run away is quickly discouraged. It becomes you and the horse. Regardless of whether Cyber is kicking out in playfulness or as an attempt to control you it is a dangerous expression and one that must be corrected. I've seen too many people chase horses around a pen to exhaustion thinking that's what you do. This can lead to disaster in either harming your horse physically or mentally. One must know the difference between correction and abuse. Asking the horse to move forward in the round pen the instant he shows himself in this fashion will make him realize his behavior did not intimidate you , but instead to focus on your continued request for him to move on. It will also allow you the opportunity to reward him when he does move forward. Round pen or ground work done properly will cause the horse to "look at you" and focus. Studying body language and understanding the signs of leadership acceptance will clarify to you where the horse’s mind is. I advise you look for a professional that is versed in natural horsemanship to teach you lessons in ground work. If there is not someone in your area that you are comfortable with there are some wonderful videos by Monte Roberts on partnering with horses. Mark Rashid is also an excellent example of passive leadership. He has several books wonderfully written based on horse behavior. Two of my favorites are Horses Never Lie and Considering the Horse. There are numerous other books and videos written on this topic, but many "natural horseman" use methods that can hardly be termed as natural or kind. I would ask any prospective trainer to allow you to watch some training sessions. If this is not allowed I would not recommend him/her to work with your or your horse. I always insist in working with both horse and rider together. You will ultimately be his trainer and need to understand the process. You must not hesitate to protect Cyber in any situation where you are not in agreement with his treatment in training. Remember, he is your horse, ultimately it is your obligation to be certain he is in good hands at all times.
Once your leadership role is accomplished I would recommend you move forward on rider education. One must be able to sit properly on a horse, using body language through your position and aids to communicate to the horse what you are asking. Just developing the basics of correct use of aids and body language will be tremendous help to you. A rider who does not sit balanced can easily cause discomfort to a horse by both gripping and bouncing. Cyber may be a substantial horse, but he still will feel any pain inflicted. Again, I feel seeking a competent trainer that will assist you in accomplishing this could be a tremendous help to you. Horses do not automatically understand our language. Training with kindness is a process. Learning the order of training steps and not moving forward until each step is solid will build a foundation that you can rely on an continue to develop.
As a guideline for the use of any aid, I always ask with a gentle pressure as I possibly can, i.e. leg pressure to move the horse forward. If the horse does not respond, I will instantly release that pressure and quickly clarify the request by asking again with a bit stronger leg aid. I will continue this process until the horse takes just one step in the right direction and immediately release the pressure. This will clarify to the horse what you were asking for. Think of it as "an open door" for him to walk through. Teach him to seek those open doors by clearly showing him the direction you are seeking. Put him in a position that will cause him to take the right step, not force the right step and you will soon have a willing partner that enjoys his work with you. Your use of a circle to stop Cyber is quite clever. A horse being quietly asked to walk in a circle gets focused more easily as well as it's boring to walk on a circle. He will eventually realize it's to his advantage to stop. As you are circling continue using your body aids (seat) and voice commands to clarify your request.
In summary, I believe you, your husband and Cyber would benefit greatly from some lessons. With the right help I doubt you’ll want to sell him. I very rarely suggest selling a horse, if the rider has the determination and willingness to learn. Training can become complicated Someone that uses a Positive approach to training is of the utmost importance. I always feel we should down play the negative and focus on the positive. Reward quickly for effort not just for correctness. A tiny step into the right direction will lead you to your goal.
Remember, Cyber is only capable to doing what you the rider/handler are telling him, or it can also be what you're not telling him. The process of developing that wonderful connection with a horse can take some time and effort, but in the end it is an amazing feeling to have such a wonderful and noble creature as your friend. I wish you success and would love to hear of your progress.
Horse avoiding the bit
QUESTION: Sandi, I have been watching your site for a while. I got an OTTB a couple of years ago and am in the process of re-training him. I started out taking some Natural Horsemanship lessons. I am now trying to work with my horse to develop fitness and working with him doing dressage. He has a problem accepting the bit – I am using a loose ring snaffle. He opens his mouth and chews. My instructor says he is avoiding the bit by opening his mouth – he tightened the nose strap and then added a caveson. It makes me uncomfortable – how can we work through this without harsh tools? Any suggestions?
ANSWER: Hi Peggy, Since you've been to my website you may have read my article on Cavesons. I have sent it as an attachment to this reply in the event that you have not seen the article.
I am very much against any device used to keep a horse's mouth closed. This is not beneficial in any way in creating a healthy working relationship with your horse. It causes discomfort and the inability to use his mouth in natural movement. It also inhibits use of the salivary glands. If a horse is in discomfort he will connect it with his work. Attitude and behavior problems can follow or just generally apathy towards his work.
You stated you were uncomfortable with the technique and I feel you are correct to listen to your instincts. Regardless of who you work with it is your horse, ultimately your responsibility to keep him happy and healthy. Do not be hesitant in asserting your position. If your instructor does not respect your view she/he may also not respect your horse. We expect a horse to respect us and yet many people do not respect the horse equally.
Horses chew, chomp, and open their mouths, etc. for a variety of reasons. Being a TB he may be a bit high strung and somewhat nervous of his new job. If so, the process of retraining him may need to be done slower, carefully watching him for body language to tell you if you're on the right track. Busy mouths can mean discomfort. Perhaps the bit is wrong for his mouth confirmation or it may be fitted incorrectly. Have his teeth been maintained? Mouthing can be a result of another physical discomfort, such as his back or limb soreness. It can be caused by hands that are too tight, unstable, too busy. It can be caused by simply asking too much of the horse. Mouthing is simply an expression, but it's an expression of discomfort. I urge you to take the caveson off, loosen your regular noseband and rethink all of the above. Herm Sprenger makes a wonderful training snaffle. I always suggest a eggbutt or a "D" ring versus a free round ring that can pinch lips easily. It's important to know your horse's mouth conformation. Some horses have a low pallet, some high. Lower pallets are harder to fit comfortably. Also, is the width of the bit correct and how thick is the mouth piece?
Normally, I would start with checking the bit, the mouth, the bridle for any possible problems. I check the saddle for a correct fit. I like to see the horse move freely on a lunge with a halter then watch the horse being worked. Most often the problem can be evaluated through this process.
Without seeing your horse I cannot tell you exactly what the root of the problem is. Going through each of the above steps should bring clarity to you. Regardless of how you chose to proceed I encourage you to trust yourself. If your trainer does not wish to be "flexible" in his thinking and open to possibilities you will have to make a decision as to how to continue your training.
I often say "listen to your horse, he is the best teacher of all!" Please let me know if you have other questions or if I can be of any further assistance. I would also be interest in knowing your progress and wish you much success!

